Wednesday, June 25, 2014

FOOD WRITING: PAELLA PERFECTION

Manila Bulletin
June 26, 2014

http://www.mb.com.ph/paella-perfection/

Paella perfection

Spanish in origin, paella has found its way to the heart of every Filipino foodie. With different versions from every region in the world, check out how Manila’s brightest chefs have put their own twist to this classic favourite.

by Ieth Inolino
June 26, 2014

CHEF BETTINA ARGUELLES

Restaurant Operations and French Chef, Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila

The secret to a good paella is the stock: I use a concentrated seafood fumet with white wine, prawn, clam, fish, and mussels reduced to intensify flavors. I render good chorizo for complexity of flavor, and use the best Spanish saffron… a little goes a long way. Fumet is a concentrated stock, to render is to slowly cook meat in its own fat. Saffron is infused in the stock; it’s not sprinkled on top like other spices.

CHEF ROLANDO LAUDICO

Chef Laudico Catering

First thing to consider is the rice you use for paella. It should be short grain rice. Next, the stock used should be flavorful and well seasoned since the rice absorbs the liquid completely. Take note that rice cooks anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes, so don’t put ingredients that cook fast at the start like fish and seafood, but add them near the end. Meat, however, can be placed at the start. The best tasting paella for me is cooked in firewood or charcoal since it gives that smoky flavor that I love!

CHEF ALESSIO LODDO

Executive Chef, Crimson Hotel

My secret to creating good paella is the quality of ingredients and the time you give for preparation. Slow cooking is one way to cook with a flavorful dish. Take time to sauté the ingredients until caramelized, to prepare the base from scratch, to let the rice simmer until moist, and to check it from time to time to ensure that the rice does not dry up or get burned. The quality of the ingredients is also important. You won’t get the same output if you use processed ingredients like paella powder mixes and vegetables in can, among others. The best flavors will come from natural and fresh ingredients. Extra virgin olive oil, homemade stocks (2/3 chicken, 1/3 fish, or vegetable), and wine are some of the key ingredients in my version of paella.

CHEF JP ANGLO

Sarsa Kitchen + Bar

My family and I have always cooked paella indoors, until recently at the beach. We decided to cook it over an open-flame charcoal and coconut husks. It was the best paella we’ve ever had. It was moist to perfection, plus the rice had a tinge of good smoky flavor.

CHEF SACHA GAUSSELMAN

Fresh All Day Dining, Solaire Resort & Casino

I use spices from Spain and special herbs to add flavor to my paella. And bayo arroz (paella rice from Spain).

CHEF RICARDO ACQUISTA

Old Manila Chef de Cuisine, The Peninsula Manila

“To make a good paella, it is important to consider the ingredients used—the fresher, the better, whether they’re vegetables, meat, fish, or seafood. The caramelization of the vegetables and seafood or meat depends on the paella you are making. Another essential thing is the broth, which will contribute almost 50 percent of the flavor that the rice will absorb. And never forget a nice touch of Pimenton de la Vera (Spanish paprika).

CHEF DENNIS MORA

Diamond Hotel Philippines

Our version of the hispanic paella is created with a modern twist by topping it with Tandoori octopus, sisig, and chicken lollipop stuffed with Batangas shrimps. The stock used for flavoring the paella is mixed with traditional aged lambanog.”

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

COVER STYLING: DANICA MAGPANTAY + JEFF LANGAN

Panorama, Manila Bulletin
June 8, 2014

CELEBRITY STYLING: BASTI ARTADI | ANDRE + BENJIE PARAS

Manila Bulletin Lifestyle
June 13, 2014

More photos by Keith Dador

FOOD WRITING: THE PERFECT ADOBO

Manila Bulletin Lifestyle
June 12, 2014

http://www.mb.com.ph/the-perfect-adobo/

The perfect adobo

There’s an art and exact science to cooking the Philippines’ best-loved dish. Let the best chefs in Manila show you how it’s done.

by Ieth Inolino
June 12, 2014

CHEF GENE DEL PRADO

Executive sous chef, Makati Shangri-La

“Marinate for one hour in soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, and crust pepper. For the sauce, thicken a little bit of cornstarch with water.”

CHEF ROLANDO LAUDICO

Chef, Bistro Filipino

“I don’t add the vinegar when marinating, but in the middle part of the cooking process. And I cover the pot right after. Only use the best vinegar like coconut or paumbong.”

CHEF EDUARDO MADDELA

Executive sous chef, The Peninsula Manila

“Pork neck or kasim is the best part, as it is good for braising and has limited fat. My home style is to mix some chicken liver in the adobo then blend the liver with the sauce.”

CHEF JP ANGLO

Chef, Sarsa Kitchen + Bar

“A good adobo should be slow cooked for four hours. For big batches, five hours. After cooking, transfer the adobo to a rice cooker and let it sit there. Keep in warm temperature.

CHEF SAU DEL ROSARIO

Executive chef, F1 Hotel

“Cook adobo in very low fire. The perfect adobo is like a wine—it becomes tastier the more you refry it. Lumalabas talaga ’yung flavor niya.”

CHEF ALWIN MONTUANO

Chef, Prosperity Court Restaurant at Resorts World Manila

“To have that complete ‘adobo heaven’ experience, you need to have a good accompaniment such as green mango and tomato salad, soft boiled egg, calamansi with chili, and fish sauce—and let’s not forget the fragrant, piping hot garlic rice for the purist, while aligue rice is for those who want a ‘happy ending’!”

CHEF GREG GALANG

Executive sous chef, Dusit Thani Manila

“Depending on the size of the meat pieces, it takes approximately 40 tender loving and caring minutes under a watchful, beautiful, sexy eye until the meat is perfectly falling off the bones.”

CHEF JOJO BARBIERA

Chef de partie, Spiral at Sofitel Philippine Plaza

“Once you’ve marinated the pork, you have to grill the meat on a really hot pan before incorporating the marinating liquid. It’s important to grill the pork meat first to give the adobo that smoky undertone.”

CHEF BOBBIT NICOL

Head chef, Corniche Restaurant at Diamond Hotel

“Mix water approximately 10 minutes after you pour in the measured vinegar and soy sauce.”

THIS IS ADOBO COUNTRY

Every region has its own version of adobo. Filipino chain of restaurants Adobo Connection’s managing director Kellda Centeno recognizes that it is precisely the versatility of adobo that makes it a classic dish: “I think you’ll be hard pressed to find a Filipino who doesn’t like adobo. If there’s one thing we all have in common, it’s our love for adobo, which is why we say that adobo connects us all.” Centeno shares the different versions of adobo throughout the country:

PAMPANGA

White adobo or adobong puti: The pork is boiled with vinegar, garlic, laurel, and salt until all the liquid is absorbed.

BICOL

Adobo sa gata: Original adobo but stewed with coconut cream.

BATANGAS

Adobong dilaw: This authentic Filipino dish originated from Taal, Batangas. Taaleños use luyang dilaw to brighten up the color of the dish.

Adobong Anatto: Chicken and pork adobo use anatto seeds or achuete to impart a rich orange color to the dish.

LEYTE AND SAMAR

Adobong Waray: Chicken and pork are fried before simmering in vinegar, salt, pepper, and bay leaves.

ILOCANDIA

Adobong tuyo: Adobo cooked heavy with vinegar and garlic, and simmered until the sauce is dried up and gets fried in its own oil or fat.

Adobong itim: Adobo dish uses sukang Iloco (Ilocos vinegar) from sugar cane, which is dark and pungent and locally grown garlic.

Adobong tinupig: Adobo is twice cooked. Chicken is simmered and deboned. The shredded meat is wrapped in banana leaves and broiled, a process called tinupig.

MANILA

Classic chicken and pork adobo: Simmered in vinegar, garlic, pepper, bay leaves, and soy sauce to give it a golden color. Simmered meats are fried and served with the reduced sauce.