June 12, 2014
http://www.mb.com.ph/the-perfect-adobo/
The perfect adobo
There’s an art and exact science to cooking the Philippines’ best-loved dish. Let the best chefs in Manila show you how it’s done.
CHEF GENE DEL PRADO
Executive sous chef, Makati Shangri-La
“Marinate for one hour in soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, and crust pepper. For the sauce, thicken a little bit of cornstarch with water.”
CHEF ROLANDO LAUDICO
Chef, Bistro Filipino
“I don’t add the vinegar when marinating, but in the middle part of the cooking process. And I cover the pot right after. Only use the best vinegar like coconut or paumbong.”
CHEF EDUARDO MADDELA
Executive sous chef, The Peninsula Manila
“Pork neck or kasim is the best part, as it is good for braising and has limited fat. My home style is to mix some chicken liver in the adobo then blend the liver with the sauce.”
CHEF JP ANGLO
Chef, Sarsa Kitchen + Bar
“A good adobo should be slow cooked for four hours. For big batches, five hours. After cooking, transfer the adobo to a rice cooker and let it sit there. Keep in warm temperature.
CHEF SAU DEL ROSARIO
Executive chef, F1 Hotel
“Cook adobo in very low fire. The perfect adobo is like a wine—it becomes tastier the more you refry it. Lumalabas talaga ’yung flavor niya.”
CHEF ALWIN MONTUANO
Chef, Prosperity Court Restaurant at Resorts World Manila
“To have that complete ‘adobo heaven’ experience, you need to have a good accompaniment such as green mango and tomato salad, soft boiled egg, calamansi with chili, and fish sauce—and let’s not forget the fragrant, piping hot garlic rice for the purist, while aligue rice is for those who want a ‘happy ending’!”
CHEF GREG GALANG
Executive sous chef, Dusit Thani Manila
“Depending on the size of the meat pieces, it takes approximately 40 tender loving and caring minutes under a watchful, beautiful, sexy eye until the meat is perfectly falling off the bones.”
CHEF JOJO BARBIERA
Chef de partie, Spiral at Sofitel Philippine Plaza
“Once you’ve marinated the pork, you have to grill the meat on a really hot pan before incorporating the marinating liquid. It’s important to grill the pork meat first to give the adobo that smoky undertone.”
CHEF BOBBIT NICOL
Head chef, Corniche Restaurant at Diamond Hotel
“Mix water approximately 10 minutes after you pour in the measured vinegar and soy sauce.”
THIS IS ADOBO COUNTRY
Every region has its own version of adobo. Filipino chain of restaurants Adobo Connection’s managing director Kellda Centeno recognizes that it is precisely the versatility of adobo that makes it a classic dish: “I think you’ll be hard pressed to find a Filipino who doesn’t like adobo. If there’s one thing we all have in common, it’s our love for adobo, which is why we say that adobo connects us all.” Centeno shares the different versions of adobo throughout the country:
PAMPANGA
White adobo or adobong puti: The pork is boiled with vinegar, garlic, laurel, and salt until all the liquid is absorbed.
BICOL
Adobo sa gata: Original adobo but stewed with coconut cream.
BATANGAS
Adobong dilaw: This authentic Filipino dish originated from Taal, Batangas. Taaleños use luyang dilaw to brighten up the color of the dish.
Adobong Anatto: Chicken and pork adobo use anatto seeds or achuete to impart a rich orange color to the dish.
LEYTE AND SAMAR
Adobong Waray: Chicken and pork are fried before simmering in vinegar, salt, pepper, and bay leaves.
ILOCANDIA
Adobong tuyo: Adobo cooked heavy with vinegar and garlic, and simmered until the sauce is dried up and gets fried in its own oil or fat.
Adobong itim: Adobo dish uses sukang Iloco (Ilocos vinegar) from sugar cane, which is dark and pungent and locally grown garlic.
Adobong tinupig: Adobo is twice cooked. Chicken is simmered and deboned. The shredded meat is wrapped in banana leaves and broiled, a process called tinupig.
MANILA
Classic chicken and pork adobo: Simmered in vinegar, garlic, pepper, bay leaves, and soy sauce to give it a golden color. Simmered meats are fried and served with the reduced sauce.
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