FOOD WRITING: PAELLA PERFECTION

Manila Bulletin
June 26, 2014

http://www.mb.com.ph/paella-perfection/

Paella perfection

Spanish in origin, paella has found its way to the heart of every Filipino foodie. With different versions from every region in the world, check out how Manila’s brightest chefs have put their own twist to this classic favourite.

by Ieth Inolino
June 26, 2014

CHEF BETTINA ARGUELLES

Restaurant Operations and French Chef, Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila

The secret to a good paella is the stock: I use a concentrated seafood fumet with white wine, prawn, clam, fish, and mussels reduced to intensify flavors. I render good chorizo for complexity of flavor, and use the best Spanish saffron… a little goes a long way. Fumet is a concentrated stock, to render is to slowly cook meat in its own fat. Saffron is infused in the stock; it’s not sprinkled on top like other spices.

CHEF ROLANDO LAUDICO

Chef Laudico Catering

First thing to consider is the rice you use for paella. It should be short grain rice. Next, the stock used should be flavorful and well seasoned since the rice absorbs the liquid completely. Take note that rice cooks anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes, so don’t put ingredients that cook fast at the start like fish and seafood, but add them near the end. Meat, however, can be placed at the start. The best tasting paella for me is cooked in firewood or charcoal since it gives that smoky flavor that I love!

CHEF ALESSIO LODDO

Executive Chef, Crimson Hotel

My secret to creating good paella is the quality of ingredients and the time you give for preparation. Slow cooking is one way to cook with a flavorful dish. Take time to sauté the ingredients until caramelized, to prepare the base from scratch, to let the rice simmer until moist, and to check it from time to time to ensure that the rice does not dry up or get burned. The quality of the ingredients is also important. You won’t get the same output if you use processed ingredients like paella powder mixes and vegetables in can, among others. The best flavors will come from natural and fresh ingredients. Extra virgin olive oil, homemade stocks (2/3 chicken, 1/3 fish, or vegetable), and wine are some of the key ingredients in my version of paella.

CHEF JP ANGLO

Sarsa Kitchen + Bar

My family and I have always cooked paella indoors, until recently at the beach. We decided to cook it over an open-flame charcoal and coconut husks. It was the best paella we’ve ever had. It was moist to perfection, plus the rice had a tinge of good smoky flavor.

CHEF SACHA GAUSSELMAN

Fresh All Day Dining, Solaire Resort & Casino

I use spices from Spain and special herbs to add flavor to my paella. And bayo arroz (paella rice from Spain).

CHEF RICARDO ACQUISTA

Old Manila Chef de Cuisine, The Peninsula Manila

“To make a good paella, it is important to consider the ingredients used—the fresher, the better, whether they’re vegetables, meat, fish, or seafood. The caramelization of the vegetables and seafood or meat depends on the paella you are making. Another essential thing is the broth, which will contribute almost 50 percent of the flavor that the rice will absorb. And never forget a nice touch of Pimenton de la Vera (Spanish paprika).

CHEF DENNIS MORA

Diamond Hotel Philippines

Our version of the hispanic paella is created with a modern twist by topping it with Tandoori octopus, sisig, and chicken lollipop stuffed with Batangas shrimps. The stock used for flavoring the paella is mixed with traditional aged lambanog.”